Accessing the valve itself is actually VERY easy because there is a panel behind the vavle wall in a cabinet.Put simply, an ejector system is used to pump wastewater up to the main sewer line. , unless someone knows a single handle faucet brand that is thin enough to go through about a 2" whole and Ill just somehow rig cover the two wholes until I retile them. Replacing it will be a pretty sizable job because Ill be widening the center whole through tile then plaster with the iron mesh and then due to the handle width being so far apart Ill have to actually pull the tiles in the hot/cold spots and retile them since one of the 3 handle covers isnt wide enough. I was going to just replace it with another 3 handle but again, something Ive never seen, this central brass is build at 12" on center and not 8. I wanted to see what you guys thought and if there was some kind of fix for this as itll probably be a couple months before Ill be able to swap it out with a single handle. My opinion was that the cold side had just WAY more pressure than the hot and it was over powering the mix. Its been a long time since I have dealt with these valves and have NEVER run into a problem like this. It takes a LOT of fiddling to get the water to a warm temperature. When you turn on the cold water it just decides no more hot. One thing my tenant showed me was that when you turn on the hot water it comes out hot. I wanted to replace it with a single handle (still do) but it might be a little while before I can so I just rebuilt it with new stems, and seats. In one of my units I have this old central brass shower valve. You might also consider adding a high level alarm to the sump so you get a warning if there is a problem with the pump. When planning the installation make sure to leave the access hatch/cover for the sump accessible so it can be serviced. Installing a sump in the floor is the most common and is often done in new construction. It's certainly big enough and empties the chamber in about 3-5 seconds and has worked reliably for 12+ years. Under warranty they provided a replacement that was a 1 hp brand name cast iron pump. I think it was 1/2 hp which was certainly enough power but the motor developed a bad spot and would not start again if it stopped on the bad spot. My system originally came with a questionable quality pump. Mine is installed permanently under the raised floor of the bathroom and the inspections dept and my insurance company consider it a permanent part of the home, increasing it's value because of the additional bathroom. #Toilet with ejector pump installAlso, the sump can take up a fair bit of floor space and cutting open the concrete floor can be a source for groundwater to seep into the basement.ĭepending on how you install the system I can see how it might not boost your home's value. It's a cheap and easy system to install during construction but is more work as a retrofit. The toilet drains through traditional piping into the sump where it is pumped up and out. A hole is cut in the floor and a pit dug. The last and probably most popular also happens to be the most difficult to install. Like the previous system everything is above ground so you don't have to cut open your concrete floor for installation. It uses a standard sewage ejecor pump and a standard toilet so getting replacement parts is easy. The floor of your bathroom can be built up to conceal the tank and the hump for the pump can be hidden behind a wall. With this type the toilet sits on top of a tank and has a pump chamber to the rear. They do remain out in the open and are visible and also require a somewhat non-standard toilet. You don't have to cut a hole in the floor and they are easy(ish) to access for maintenance. Popular in Europe are models like this that go behind the toilet. There are several different ways you can go.
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